This is Bangladesh: Rule # 1 and Rule #2 (rolling blackouts, traffic, onek manush, cha stalls)

 Rule #1 and Rule #2:

As some of my friends here have joked: There are only two rules for us ‘Bedeshis’ (foreigners) here in the ‘Desh’:

1) This is Bangladesh (T.I.B.)

2) Don’t drink the tap water 

When we witness something out of our comfort zone or something that really does not make sense, we simply refer back to rule number one.  “Rule #1” explains it all.  Now, please do not misread my sarcasm as disdain! While I might have faced many “close calls” and many a rickshaw and motorcycle might have swept my side from behind as I walked down the street, this is what makes Dhaka, Dhaka!  The traffic, the smells, the rain, the blackouts, and the unpredictability - I take it all.  It is all part of the experience.   Now, without further adieu, I shall take a few moments to elaborate on some fundamental realities that characterize my life in the 'Desh'... both of the expected and unexpected nature!

Onek manush (a lot of people)…

As currently reported, Bangladesh is one of the most densely populated countries in the world.  To give you some perspective, it is like taking more than half of the population of the United States and stuffing it inside the state of Florida! There are people EVERYWHERE. 

No, but really.

I grew up in a suburb right outside New York City, so the hustle and bustle of city life is something that I have been constantly exposed to. I feel that I am able to be here and not (easily) get overwhelmed because of this “exposure.”  That being said, it still amazes me when I go out into the city and look around at the SEA of people at seemingly EVERY public venue. 


Let’s take an example… hmm.. shopping? Okay!

A few weeks ago I went to nearby with Konica.  I love bargaining shopping in the states and I am good at weaving in and out of aisles that are congested with too many shirts and people. I argue that this “acquired skill” has served me well in Bangladesh.  If you see something you want, you have to be fairly aggressive to push your way past those in your way.  You should also be prepared to quite possibly have to step over a few children or small people in order to reach the item of your desire.  On this shopping excursion I bought the soundtrack and DVD for the Bangla movie Monpura.  I LOVE the songs and I figure that watching the movie will help me practice my Bangla (despite the fact that it is spoken in a dialect).  I’ll let you know how I like the movie, but in the mean time I suggest that you look up some of the songs on YouTube! Totally worth checking it out…

Anyways, on we go!

Black outs

Do NOT be fooled.  The rolling blackouts are a common occurrence that WILL strike at the most inconvenient times of every day.  Whether you have just arrived home from a day in the heat and are wishing to feel the nice breeze of the air-conditioner, you are uploading pictures or blog posts (ha ha) on facebook, or, my personal favorite, while you are taking a shower (which can be extremely inconvenient at night), the power WILL go out… and better yet, you WILL be surprised EVERY.  SINGLE.  TIME!

On average each blackout will last about an hour and they can occur at intervals as frequent as every other hour (and of course, sometimes more frequently).

Coming from a place where having internet 24 hours a day is considered 'the norm', having power every other hour (if I’m lucky) can sometimes pose itself as a bit of a challenge and inconvenience.  Further, I cannot help but feel this constant feeling of “surprise” that I mentioned above.  As if, for some reason, I believed that there would be a day where the power would not go out...

...

In my last post I talked briefly about the hype, enthusiasm, and zest that was sparked in Dhaka by the World Cup.  Now, being the smart cookie that I am, I know what question you must find yourself asking: “But WAIT! How can everyone consistently watch the football (soccer) games when there are these ‘rolling blackouts’?”  I shall tell you, my friends, that this is a very valid question to ask; and it is at this point that I shall take a few moments to relay a small anecdote…

One of my first Friday nights in Dhaka I was hanging out with a couple CLS-ers watching a football game.  Honestly, I do not remember which teams were playing, but I think that one of them was either Argentina or Brazil (the two Deshi favorites)!  Anyway, someone was about to score a goal and, surprise, surprise, the power went out!  Frustrated, and of course, “surprised” we then decided to head out into Noda Bazaar (aka: Narnia) to check out the scene and possibly grab some food.  Everything was nice and dandy until we saw a scene that made us look twice.

Despite the fact that seemingly no one in Baridhara had power, there was one tinie, tiny cha stall located directly outside the Baridhara gate that DID have power!  Better yet, the stall was equipt with a T.V. and currently being shown was the football game that we had left behind.  Surrounding the stall was a pack of easily 30-40 spectators.  How could this be?  Well, there was a man standing on top of the cha stall fiddling with the power lines and a pair of metal pliers in hand.  The Deshies had taken matters into their own hands and channeled power to this cha stand despite the fact that no one else in the region had power!  Rule # 1 stands strong! T.I.B. (This is Bangladesh)…  Where there is a will, there is a way!

Traffic

The traffic (and driving in general) here is unlike anything you have ever seen.  Every now and then you will find a traffic light or two, but they might as well not be there at all since no one pays attention to them.  The concept of "lanes" does not exist on the roads of Dhaka.  Driving is best described as a free for all competition! "Survival of the fittest!" or shall I say, fastest and smallest vehicle with the loudest horn?

While last year the driving might have overwhelmed me at times and kept me on my toes, this year I have found the driving to be less of a shock.   In fact, I have found within myself a level of omnipresent calmness that I did not know existed. Just yesterday, a car came millimeters away from running over my foot, yet I barely flinched.  Better yet, I laughed.  I continue to walk on the sidewalk even when there is a motorcycle heading straight at me. I have to have some faith that he will dodge me at the last second, right?  That’s kind of the way it goes here.

What is life without some jumps?  What is life without some risks?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CF7sER73TY




That's all for now!  Stay tuned for more thoughts/ life updates!


Peace,
-M