This is Bangladesh: Rule # 1 and Rule #2 (rolling blackouts, traffic, onek manush, cha stalls)

 Rule #1 and Rule #2:

As some of my friends here have joked: There are only two rules for us ‘Bedeshis’ (foreigners) here in the ‘Desh’:

1) This is Bangladesh (T.I.B.)

2) Don’t drink the tap water 

When we witness something out of our comfort zone or something that really does not make sense, we simply refer back to rule number one.  “Rule #1” explains it all.  Now, please do not misread my sarcasm as disdain! While I might have faced many “close calls” and many a rickshaw and motorcycle might have swept my side from behind as I walked down the street, this is what makes Dhaka, Dhaka!  The traffic, the smells, the rain, the blackouts, and the unpredictability - I take it all.  It is all part of the experience.   Now, without further adieu, I shall take a few moments to elaborate on some fundamental realities that characterize my life in the 'Desh'... both of the expected and unexpected nature!

Onek manush (a lot of people)…

As currently reported, Bangladesh is one of the most densely populated countries in the world.  To give you some perspective, it is like taking more than half of the population of the United States and stuffing it inside the state of Florida! There are people EVERYWHERE. 

No, but really.

I grew up in a suburb right outside New York City, so the hustle and bustle of city life is something that I have been constantly exposed to. I feel that I am able to be here and not (easily) get overwhelmed because of this “exposure.”  That being said, it still amazes me when I go out into the city and look around at the SEA of people at seemingly EVERY public venue. 


Let’s take an example… hmm.. shopping? Okay!

A few weeks ago I went to nearby with Konica.  I love bargaining shopping in the states and I am good at weaving in and out of aisles that are congested with too many shirts and people. I argue that this “acquired skill” has served me well in Bangladesh.  If you see something you want, you have to be fairly aggressive to push your way past those in your way.  You should also be prepared to quite possibly have to step over a few children or small people in order to reach the item of your desire.  On this shopping excursion I bought the soundtrack and DVD for the Bangla movie Monpura.  I LOVE the songs and I figure that watching the movie will help me practice my Bangla (despite the fact that it is spoken in a dialect).  I’ll let you know how I like the movie, but in the mean time I suggest that you look up some of the songs on YouTube! Totally worth checking it out…

Anyways, on we go!

Black outs

Do NOT be fooled.  The rolling blackouts are a common occurrence that WILL strike at the most inconvenient times of every day.  Whether you have just arrived home from a day in the heat and are wishing to feel the nice breeze of the air-conditioner, you are uploading pictures or blog posts (ha ha) on facebook, or, my personal favorite, while you are taking a shower (which can be extremely inconvenient at night), the power WILL go out… and better yet, you WILL be surprised EVERY.  SINGLE.  TIME!

On average each blackout will last about an hour and they can occur at intervals as frequent as every other hour (and of course, sometimes more frequently).

Coming from a place where having internet 24 hours a day is considered 'the norm', having power every other hour (if I’m lucky) can sometimes pose itself as a bit of a challenge and inconvenience.  Further, I cannot help but feel this constant feeling of “surprise” that I mentioned above.  As if, for some reason, I believed that there would be a day where the power would not go out...

...

In my last post I talked briefly about the hype, enthusiasm, and zest that was sparked in Dhaka by the World Cup.  Now, being the smart cookie that I am, I know what question you must find yourself asking: “But WAIT! How can everyone consistently watch the football (soccer) games when there are these ‘rolling blackouts’?”  I shall tell you, my friends, that this is a very valid question to ask; and it is at this point that I shall take a few moments to relay a small anecdote…

One of my first Friday nights in Dhaka I was hanging out with a couple CLS-ers watching a football game.  Honestly, I do not remember which teams were playing, but I think that one of them was either Argentina or Brazil (the two Deshi favorites)!  Anyway, someone was about to score a goal and, surprise, surprise, the power went out!  Frustrated, and of course, “surprised” we then decided to head out into Noda Bazaar (aka: Narnia) to check out the scene and possibly grab some food.  Everything was nice and dandy until we saw a scene that made us look twice.

Despite the fact that seemingly no one in Baridhara had power, there was one tinie, tiny cha stall located directly outside the Baridhara gate that DID have power!  Better yet, the stall was equipt with a T.V. and currently being shown was the football game that we had left behind.  Surrounding the stall was a pack of easily 30-40 spectators.  How could this be?  Well, there was a man standing on top of the cha stall fiddling with the power lines and a pair of metal pliers in hand.  The Deshies had taken matters into their own hands and channeled power to this cha stand despite the fact that no one else in the region had power!  Rule # 1 stands strong! T.I.B. (This is Bangladesh)…  Where there is a will, there is a way!

Traffic

The traffic (and driving in general) here is unlike anything you have ever seen.  Every now and then you will find a traffic light or two, but they might as well not be there at all since no one pays attention to them.  The concept of "lanes" does not exist on the roads of Dhaka.  Driving is best described as a free for all competition! "Survival of the fittest!" or shall I say, fastest and smallest vehicle with the loudest horn?

While last year the driving might have overwhelmed me at times and kept me on my toes, this year I have found the driving to be less of a shock.   In fact, I have found within myself a level of omnipresent calmness that I did not know existed. Just yesterday, a car came millimeters away from running over my foot, yet I barely flinched.  Better yet, I laughed.  I continue to walk on the sidewalk even when there is a motorcycle heading straight at me. I have to have some faith that he will dodge me at the last second, right?  That’s kind of the way it goes here.

What is life without some jumps?  What is life without some risks?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CF7sER73TY




That's all for now!  Stay tuned for more thoughts/ life updates!


Peace,
-M

They'll call me Freedom Just like a WAVING FLAG!

“Was that the call to prayer? No! That was the call to world cup!”

You would think that it was Olympics time.  The amount of enthusiasm for two opposing teams (either Brazil or Argentina) truly brought Dhaka city alive.  The Dhaka favorites? Brazil and Argentina!  There are flags waving from every lamp post, car and store or building.  I have even seen Argentina flags that are as large as entire residencies and buildings!  It is (was) a common sight to see people crowded around every TV in public spaces like stores, streets or chai stalls. 

Even though the World Cup festivities have nowcome to a close, the flags are still draped all over the city.  I thought that I would share some photos that I have taken to give you a taste of the atmosphere.

Week Three (Part Two): moshas, saris, mosques, and a balcony

Week Three (Part Two):

Short (choto) Version:

Current Studies: We have now learned EVERY tense! We learned five tenses this week! Ah! J Also learned vocab. this week for family members, occupations, fruits, vegetables, days of the week..

Health: Ami bhalo achi! ( I am doing very well!) No complaints!

CLS Trip: Sonargon

Life: Lots of thoughts…

Big (Boro) version:

I am fully recovered health wise.  Despite the moshas (mosquitoes) who apparently think that my blood is the sweetest and insist on biting me no matter what extreme measures I take to push them away, all is well.  I did finally get a purple (beguni) mosquito net up, and now, two weeks later I can confirm that it has helped my situation substantially!

Week three was a whirlwind filled with grammar!  We learned five tenses (one each day) that were all to be on our next test.  I have been experimenting with different ways of studying and organization to find the best way for me to succeed! …easier said than done haha.  At the end of the day, I can practice my vocab and grammar by talking it out for as many hours as I want, but a lot of the material that I am being given at this point (ie. Verb conjugations and grammar rules) require some hard-core memorization, and this I need to do on my own.  I came to realize that while it might be fun to run around exploring the city and such, I do need to make sure I manage my time so that I can put in enough hours to drive all these lessons home and solidify what  we are learning in class.  Yipee! Learning Lessons!

…and yes, friends, and strangers, I am happy to say that my work is finally showing some tangible progress!  Things are finally “clicking” and I am able to have some pretty substantial conversations (my language partner Konica can attest to this). 

Another exciting event of week three was that I FINALLY got to meet up with some Colgate people! Hooray!  We went to a comedy club that is located just a few blocks away from me in Baridhara (I had NO IDEA that this was there) and then out to coffee.  I was not surprised, since I was the only white person at the venue I became a “target” for about half of the show, but jai hoke (whatever), it was all in good fun! It was really nice to see a familiar face and have a fun evening!

After our big trip to Sonargon the previous week, weekend #3 did not have any ‘large’ trip out of Dhaka, but we did have an exciting time nonetheless!  The director of the program, Tony Stewart, finally arrived in Dhaka! Some health complications had prevented him from flying over with us but now that he is here we are glad to have him and look forward to getting to know him.  We attended both a large welcome reception for him at his flat on Thursday and then again reconvened on Friday for a series of art showings at different studios in Dhamondi followed by a party at a artist’s home.  Of course, the girls all took this as an opportunity to break out the saris and party with style! I wore a new red sari that Konica helped me pick out. 

Weekend three also included a trip to a mosque in Baridhara for the Friday service.  I really enjoyed the trip to the mosque.  Since I got here I have wanted to attend a service, but it is not something that I felt I could do on my own.  In Dhaka it is not a standard thing for all women to attend the mosque and most woman pray at home.  When we went inside the mosque there were two separate entrances (one for the men and one for the women).  The men then entered a large carpeted room where the Imam led the service, and the woman went upstairs to a separate room where we could hear the Imam over a loud speaker.  The service was spoken in both Arabic and Bangla.  I could understand words here and there, but for the most part I did not understand what was said in the service.  There were only two other woman in the room, but they were very nice and were more than willing to talk to us, answer questions, and tell us about Islam and their own religious experiences and beliefs.  In addition, at one point of the service they helped lead us through all of the different ritualistic postures, and required hand motions.

I plan to take a course at Colgate in the fall on the role of woman in Islam, so I have been trying to have as many conversations as possible with different woman who identify with Islam.  I have found, however, that not all women feel comfortable talking to me about this and that it can be a rather delicate subject at times.  For this reason, I found this trip to the mosque especially enlightening and as a valuable opportunity for me to get an “insider’s view.”

At the end of the service there was a time for personal prayer and reflection.  I took this time as an opportunity to clear my mind, relax, and yes, smile.  So much happens every day here (as can be attested by the fact that I have gotten so far behind in my blog posts)!  For this reason, I believe that it is that much more important to remember to take the time to reflect, take a deep breath, and slow down every now and then.

I smile and laugh a lot.  I smile when I wake up every morning because it is my favorite time of day.  For those first few moments nothing is wrong, all is good, and there lies the possibility that almost anything could happen.  The fact that most days nothing of this spectacular genre happens matters not one bit; the possibility is always there.

No matter when unfortunate events a day might bring I always try to find a time to smile and be happy for what I have.  Life is short, you have to remember to look around you.  Look out a window and see something new.  Also, with each new surrounding I try to pick one living thing or space to remember and to notice.  It can be a flower, a tree, or any space.  I watch it grow, watch it weather, change, and be used in different ways.  I try to notice that which is not noticed.

My current spot is the corner of the balcony on our flat.  I love watching how it is used as a space.  Birds frequently perch and we have started to air dry some of our clothes out there.  It seems that every time I look out there, there are different types of birds in different numbers!  I find it hard not to smile as I watch these birds hopping around.  For these few minutes every day, I clear my head and simply watch “our” birds.  *Smile*, *sigh*  :  )

…And so concludes week three! A bit of a slower pace, but I didn’t mind this one bit!

PEACE,

-M

A pic with the artist!

A Group pic!

The birds on the balcony!

Day Trip Week Three (Part One): Sonargon! (Lots of green, Village life, Sari weaving, Photo-shoots, Football)

Hi Everyone :)

Check out my older posts! I have added pictures! Hooray!

I am sorry that I have not posted for so long. Obviously, lots and lots has happened since my last post so I shall do my best to fill you in.  To do so, I am going to do this in installments… Alright, ready?  Here we go:

End of Week Two/ Start of Week Three:

         Our Day trip for week Two was to Sonargon.  Sonargon is a relatively nearby village that is known for its production of the hand-woven jamdani sari.   Jamdani woven products are rich in traditional Bengali culture and tradition and are the product of lengthly hours of patient and dedicated handwork.   Our first stop was Rupshi.  Here we had a chance to observe the process by which the famous jamdani saris are produced.  As we walked through the winding dirt paths of the village we passed by large production rooms filled with machinery that prepare the various colored threads for weaving.

            We then spent the duration of our time in Rupshi mingling with the jamdani weavers and viewing the fruits of their labor.  The weavers were all situated in a small and dimly lit hut.  There were several weaving stations all within close proximity of each other, and with two men positioned at each weaving station.  Being the lively and adventurous group that we are, we all jumped at the chance to climb down into the weaving stations and learn to make a few stitches from the professional weavers.  I found that I posses an uncanny talent for jamdani weaving, and that really, it is as easy as eating a piece of apple pie! JUST KIDDING, this is what really happened:  after a bit of maneuvering and carefully planned movements of descent as I climbed down into the weaving station (careful not to bump into the nearby weaving stations) I began my first attempts at weaving a jamdani sari.  Let me be the first to tell you, this is NO easy feat!  The threads are SO CLOSE that you must squint very hard and weave a small metal hand tool back and forth small and precisely calculated distances.  The weavers do not use a guide of any kind as they have memorized all of the weaving patterns.  My weaving partner had to hold my hand the whole time to make sure that I wouldn’t mess up.  I am proud to say, however that by the end of my 15 minute jamdani sari-weaving session that I was able to make one or two stitches by myself! 

            I thought that our trip to Rupshi was extremely special.  I loved the feeling of being in a village.  I loved the green, the clear skies, the animals, the people, and the feeling of remoteness.  Leaving Dhaka brought back many memories from my time in Bangladesh last summer interning with Grameen, and my many village-stays.  I can’t wait until I can speak Bangla so that I can come back and use it in the villages.

            Before long we were on the road again and arriving at our next stop in Sonargon to explore two museums on the history of Sonargon.  The literal translation of Sonargon is ‘golden village.’  Under the Muslim rulers of eastern Bengal, Sonargon used to be the main center for commerce and administration.  It is situated in what is now the Narayangani district and is about 27 km to the southeast of Dhaka.  Sonargon’s grandness and stature have survived only in name.  What remains are ruins and remnants of a once gleaming city. 

            I had fun running around the museum with my fellow students looking at the artifacts (mostly examples of items that used to be traded) and snapping photos in the unique aged, and elaborate ruins.  In some of our free time that we had to roam around, the boys managed to find a football (soccer game) with some locals that they willing joined!  Expect a post with my thoughts about the world cup... If I open that can of worms now I will NEVER finish this post! haha

        This “photo shoot” of sorts then continued as we advanced to Panam City, ruins from what used to be the accommodations of the upper-middle class.  Despite their looks, we quickly learned that these “ruins” are actually inhabited!  We had a great time mingling with the locals and exploring the “city.”  Many of the CLS-ers even stopped for a quick cup of tea at a cha stall before our departure.

            Our last stop for the day was  the Goaldi Mosque.  After hearing a lecture on Islamic architecture (which I unfortunately missed due to illness)  this trip was meant to show us some of the unique architecture that one can find in Bangladesh.  It was a short visit, yet another perfect end to a more than eventful day!

Stay tuned for more pics and recent posts!

A woman I met when we arrived in Rupshi.

A man working in the fields. 

Two men hard at work weaving a Jamdani Sari.

I give weaving a try!

Weaving a Jamdani Sari is no easy feat!

A group pic!

Some kids I befriended in Panam City!

In front of Goaldi Mosque!

Week Two (Part Two): A series of Unfortunate and Fortunate Events (Language partners, Munawars, sick days, Ginger Tea, promises & brishti)

Sunday June 13th :) Friday June 18th

Okay, so, week two… this following week had some ups and downs, but I’m fine and I worked through it!

… And then it was Sunday, and then there were classes, and then we had our FIRST TEST! I wish I could say it was easy, but… nah. It was pretty hard! Now that I have a feel for the “typical” test I have a better idea of what I need to do to study efficiently and hopefully I can get the grades up to where I will be happy with them. After our test we jumped straight into three more hours of class and then hit the streets with our prof Atif to test out our bartering skills with the venders in Narnia. I bought two mangos (Am)! Yum! I believe that I am getting slightly better at this whole “bartering” thing, although I cannot tell if people are truly impressed by my bangla skills or simply stunned that I am clearly Badeshi (a foreigner) and know some bangla, haha. Well, whatever the “true” case may be, I love any opportunity to interact with the locals!

This was also my first week where I got to spend time with my language partner, Konica! The basic idea behind the “language partner” is that IUB (Independent University of Bangladesh) has, in addition to my class-intensive Bangla instruction, paired each student up with a local university student so that we can practice our bangla on a more conversational level and see another side of Dhaka that we might not have otherwise seen. We are required to spend at least fifteen hours a week with our conversation partners.

Konica is very sweet, personable, and down to earth. Although we were both a bit shy at first, by the end of our first day we had both opened up and broke the ice as we started to get to know each other. I think that we will be great friends and I am excited to learn Bangla and further explore Dhaka with her.

Another highlight of my week was getting to spend a substantial amount of time with fellow CLS-er Katie Hasnain. Katie and I have really clicked and I love our time together. Katie is half Chinese and half Bangladeshi. After learning Chinese and spending some time in China last year, Katie now wishes to learn Bangla and connect with the other side of her heritage and family. Katie definitely has a talent for learning languages and she motivates me (even more) to learn Bangla!

I also got to visit my host family from last year (The Munawars)! I definitely miss Diana a lot since she is in the States, but nonetheless it was wonderful to see her family (and Faruk)!!! :)

…And in a moment everything changes… BAM!

Our cute little bunch of fifteen Americans was all nice and fine until we hit the one week mark… tick, tick, tick, tick…… EXPLOSION! Every single person in our group fell ill this week. Apparently it is normal for all participants to fall ill at one point or another, but it was extremely unusual for EVERYONE to get sick at the same time. Granted, the illnesses were slightly staggered for the most part, but this meant that there were always at least two people who were sick at any given point this week, and several trips were made to the nearby (thank goodness) Apollo Hospital.

Stephen and I were the last two to fall ill with “infections.” The doctor did not give me many more details than this.. I apparently had some kind of bacterial infection? All I know is that I slept for 40 hours.. only waking to throw up. I even threw up on my “How to learn Bangla” Book. Of course the running joke that materialized was that this “occurrence” was somehow foreshadowing of my summer and that my body was even “rejecting” the Bangla material. Needless to say, not my finest hour.

It is at this point (if you are still reading) that I shaIl spare you some of my ELABORATE details; however, I will elaborate on my thoughts before, during, and after said unfortunate events. After all, I am a big believer in the act of self- reflection.

As you can probably tell from my post from week one, I was feeling pretty high, happy, excited and on top of things. This unexpected bout of illness brought me low and pretty miserable. At my worst, I even found myself questioning my choice to come to Bangladesh this summer. All I knew was that I was completely miserable and I wanted to be home (Yes, with my mommy). I felt kind of alone. When I woke up the next day somewhat hydrated, and fully medicated I was able to see things more clearly and I realized how foolish I had been to think such things!

I am ANYTHING but alone here. What about the teachers on call who made sure that the program manager knew what was going on? What about the people who escorted to me to and from the doctor with warm smiles and as much time as I needed? What about the cook, Milan, who made me tea, and gave me bananas and his phone number in case I had any problems? And what about MY FRIENDS??? One of my flat mates, Nate had some kind of relapse the night that same night so when I finally emerged from my room feeling somewhat better we talked for a while with Stefanie who came down from her apartment upstairs equip with two bottles of sprite and the fixings for Ginger Tea! Not to mention that all of this happened after two of the teachers and Katie had already stopped by to see what was up…. In fact, looking back, it is amazing how much of a family we are considering that it has only been two weeks…Adversity makes you stronger? :)

SO yes. I am feeling stronger, and my thoughts are much clearer.

To conclude this week’s reflection I shall leave you with some words from a conversation I had with my language partner, Konica:

Just yesterday Konica asked me, “Why Bangla?” I thought that, considering the places where I found my mind wandering this week, you all might be interested to know the gist of what I said…


Why Bangla? ….because I am going to come back. Because I came here on a whim and I fell in love with the mystery and the essence of a world, culture, and plethora of people that I never knew existed. Things might be hard, but it gives me hope for my life and work in the States. I need more of a global perspective on issues like poverty if I truly want to do something substantial, tangible, and sustainable to help Native Americans in the United States. But no, it is not all about me and MY work, it is also about them. I think that as a country, Bangladesh is somewhat underappreciated and underestimated in this world. I decided after I came here last year that I wanted to make an investment to learn more about this culture and people. I want to come home to the States and tell people about my experiences here, and yes, I want to continue to come back. Who knows? Maybe I will inspire others to take my same trek to the other side of the world to experience something new. Maybe they too will come to Bangladesh?

Someone once said to me that Dhaka is all about the people. If you do not remember the people, then you do not remember anything.

It is true. I do not see the dirt or the pain, I see the people. My daily adventures are the people. I love the people. I am learning from the people. I want to maintain my existing relationships here and I want to continue to build new ones. I have a family here as the Munawars have graciously accepted me into their home and their hearts. A second, beautiful family.

I am a Munawar, and I am Margaret- Maggie- Margo- Mishti- Dowling (Munawar) Dunne.


And so the week finally has come to a close! It was anything but easy, but I made it through once again.

Ta ta for now!

A Golapi (Pink) Day with Katie Hasnain!

A quick pic with Konica! :)

Week Two: Part One!... Day Trip to Old Dhaka

Hello all! :)

As per usual, I have tons and tons to report! This is a Two-Part Post since I have been lacking in the blog department recently…

Short (choto) Version:

Current Studies: Reading Script, counting numbers through 100, Present & Future Tenses AND verb conjugations!:) Also learned vocab. this week for bartering, colors and body parts.
Health: Mortamurti (so-so)… I experienced my first health low point this week. I’m all better now though (thank goodness)!
Life: Life is exciting right now! :)

And here come the.... drum roll… Elaborate DETAILS (and deepest, darkest secrets)!

Okay, okay… Maybe I’m kidding about the “secrets” part. After putting myself out here I have to leave SOME thoughts to myself :)

Part One:
Saturday June 12th: Day-Trip to Old Dhaka (Lal Bagh Fort, Ahsan Manjil, Dhakeshwari Temple)

And so week one officially came to a close with our CLS day- trip to tour Old Dhaka. We have a day-trip scheduled for each Saturday in which we travel to a pre-determined destination guided by our team of Bangla teachers and students from all levels (Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced). In other words, a day that is sure to be filled with FUN and both planned (and unplanned) surprises!

Our first stop in Old Dhaka was Ahsan Manzil. Ahsan Manzil, was once the residential palace of Nawab Khwaja Abdul Ghani, and there after was witness to many historical events of Bangladesh including the rise of the Muslim leaders of East Bengal. Ahsan Manzil has since been turned into a museum. It is enormous and strikingly beautiful to say the least, and is considered to be one of the most significant architectural monuments of Bangladesh. The interior of the building is caked in marble and filled with artifacts and trinkets. I could not help but be struck by the difference in manner between US museums and the few that I have been able to visit in Bangladesh. Few of these historic “artifacts” had glass casings to both preserve and prevent them from being stolen. After touring the many rooms of the palace, we found ourselves on the roof where we took pictures and enjoyed the beautiful view of the beautiful, green gardens surrounding Ahsan Manzil in stark contrast with the surrounding, crumbling residencies of Old Dhaka.

After a quick drive through Dhaka University and lunch at renowned restaurant Khosboo, we arrived at our next (and my FAVORITE) spot: Lalbagh Fort! Lalbagh Fort is an incomplete Mughal palace fortress constructed in 1678 AD and located in the southwestern part of the old city. I say “incomplete” because the ruler who oversaw the commission, Shaista Khan, abandoned the project after the death of his daughter, Bibi Pari (Lady Fairy). The inside the walls of the fort are rich gardens and a trio of buildings (a mosque, the tomb of daughter Bibi Pari, and an additional residency).

Although Lalbagh Fort might not be “finished” it is easily one of the most beautiful and special places that I have visited in Dhaka city. It is a little peace of Bangla heaven; a world away from this world, and a place that I hope to visit again some day. As we stepped onto the grounds of Lalbagh Fort my friends and I came alive! We ran through the artsy pathways aligned with flowers taking pictures, chatting in “Banglish” and soaking in the scene. After a long week filled with a whirlwind of work and emotions, I enjoyed this time to hang out with my teachers outside of the classroom and bond with the CLS-ers in a new and truly wonderful place.

My favorite moments from Lalbagh include:
1) Hanging with everyone from the highest part of the fort and causing a scene as Jodi tried to get everyone to partake in a Bangladeshi –dance- sesh.

2) Testing my conversational skills with a beautiful group of Bangladeshi sisters (young and old). The girls were patient with my speech, and in return the youngest member of the bunch serenaded me with the national anthem of Bangladesh. She was so good that I got chills. This is a memory I will never forget.

We ended the day with a little rest and relaxation at the Dakshineswar Hindu Temple. Apparently, this temple is dedicated to Kali, the goddess of time and change and the wife of Shiva. I am always up for any visit to a religious venue, and this was the perfect, peaceful way to end the day.

I hope the next day trip is just as wonderful!:)

Our First Stop at Ahsan Manzil!

Our Second stop at LalBagh Fort!

A quick pic with fellow CLS-er Stephanie Nudelman!

This picture is the group of sisters that I mentioned in my post.  The young girl in the center with the brown bangles serenaded me with the national anthem of Bangladesh.  A memory that I will never forget :)

I really, truly love this place.  Khub Shundor (Very Beautiful)!

The altar dedicated to Kali (goddess of time and change) at our last stop, the Dakshineswar Hindu Temple.

Week One: Bangla, Rickshaws, & Friends

Hello all! :)

Life Update: I have officially concluded my first week of classes AND I have all of my luggage!

Name Update: Currently people have been referring to me as Margo or Margaret.. whichever way the wind takes them! I basically respond to anything that begins with an “M.”

Health Update: No ailments so far! I have been drinking LOTS of water (pani) to make sure that I stay Hydrated!

Thoughts:

Classes are HARD and I get lots of work but I am motivated by the prospect of being able to roam the streets of Dhaka and converse with people on a deeper level. It really is true that there is no better way to learn a language than to be immersed in the culture where it is spoken. There are countless opportunities for me to practice my language proficiency and skills. Whether this means practicing to read the script on store signs and packed items or chatting with the chai wallah and door gaurds, there are people who are accessible and willing to help me with every step along the way in my quest to gain a legitimate level of proficiency of Bangla. I try as often as possible to engage in conversation with people who have poor English skills (or are willing to speak to me only in Bangla) so that I can improve my conversational capacity. I spent SEVERAL hours this week practicing my bangla with the door gaurds of my apartment building. Joined by Jodi and Nate (my flat mates) we went down to the garage at 10pm or so and talked for 1-2 hours in ONLY Bangla! This opportunity has been invaluable as I have not only improved, but also I have made friends who want to help me and look out for me.

As far as the instruction, aside from moving at a fast pace, it is clear that all of the instructors want to do everything they can to help us learn. In an average day I have four classes taught by three different professors: alphabet, style, grammer, conversation. Each teacher has a different teaching style and while this can be somewhat frustrating at times, I have found that in the office hours they are more than willing to sit down with you and help work out your problems. The main problem that teachers and students of Bangla face is that there are VERY few credible teaching resources. The main reference book that we are using is actually catered to Kolkota Bangla (not Bangladesh Bangla) and thus not everything in the book can be taken as truth. Our teachers have made many of their own worksheets and we mainly rely on the notes that they give us in class.

In just a few short days, I, along with my fellow CLS-ers have learned to read and write the Bangla script as well as some basic grammar and tons of vocab. Now I know what you must be thinking: Really? That sounds like A LOT of material, and aren’t you going to be there for ten (dosh) weeks? Answer: YES! And YES!

The workload is steadily piling up and there is a pressing need to keep up with the class and meet the academic standards of the program. It is somewhat challenging to find the balance between mingling with my new friends, exploring Dhaka, chatting with our Bangla neighbors, and also being prepared for all forms of in-class evaluations. We have our first test on Sunday (after our full-day trip to Old Dhaka).

I am staying in Baridhara, an affluent community which is surrounded by an opaque fence. My friends and I have taken to referring to it as “Narnia” because Baridhara is relatively calm, clean, and peaceful, but the second you walk through the door to the street life… BAM! Dhaka city life IN YOUR FACE!! Why Narnia? Because walking through that door is like walking into another world. I did quite a bit of exploring in Narnia all week long, and it was not until the end of the week that I made my way out into Gulshan 1, Gulshan 2, and Bonani for a better taste of Dhaka.


In addition to morning classes which end around 1, we are expected to come back in the afternoons one to two days a week for additional lectures and small trips. This past week we had a series of orientation lectures including but not limited to: a panel discussion with former Peace Core volunteers and Boren Fellows (also former participants of CLS), a security briefing from the US Department of State, a lunch date with our instructors to practice our restaurant vocab, and a lecture from an esteemed professor from North South University on Hinduism in Bangladesh.

It was interesting to hear a religious lesson from a foreign teacher. After the talk, I sat down with him and told him about my plans to either major or minor in religion and my reasonings for doing so. I am not so much interested in Theology as I am in the study of the different religions in the world, their similarities and differences, and how religion has both shaped cultures overtime and caused uprisings and misunderstandings. (Unlike my brother Sean who remembers everything he has EVER learned haha) I am not one of those people who can remember all the important names, dates, and historical events that have occurred throughout history, and I realize that I will never know everything about the politics and cultures of every country around the world (including my own). That being said, I feel that by studying religion in all forms and placing it in the societal contexts in which it functions, I am better able to understand HOW to learn about other cultures. I have also become aware of the pressing need for patience and religious literacy and dialogue to ease some of the cultural tension we have going on in the world today. This year, I come back to Bangladesh with tools to be more culturally sensitive due to my deeper understanding of Islam.

Next week I will meet “my conversation partner.” CLS has essentially hired a Bangladeshi to be my best friend and show me a side of Dhaka that I would not have otherwise seen. I also hope to meet up with my host family from last year, some of my Colgate friends who are in Dhaka for the summer, and at some point shuffle off to Mirpur to visit my good friends at the Grameen Bank headquarters… I can’t wait!!!:)

I am happy to be here and I am taking life as it comes day by day. My close friends can attest that I am a girl who lives by a carefully planned schedule (and I have always chosen to make it this way). There are so many things that I want to do in this life that I try to make as most as I possibly can out of every day. Because of this, I can sometimes find it hard to just “go with the flow” and let life happen. Dhaka is forcing me to work on this. My life and experiences here are completely unpredictable and I NEVER know what new experience each day will bring. I am finding a sort of thrill in this inescapeable element of unpredictability. Maybe it really is okay to let loose every now and then… maybe I don’t always HAVE to know where my day is going to end. After all, what is the fun in that?

As the fortune cookie I ate the day before my departure so perfectly said:

“You only live once, but if you do it right once is enough.”

Although I do not know where I will end up, I feel confident that I am “doing it right” this summer, and I already feel myself growing from this.

PEACE,
M

Katie and Holly Anne walking through the Baridhara gate, and entering Narnia.

Getting some help from some friends! :)

Most of the Chai wallahs that I have seen are men, so it was a pleasant surprise to stumble upon this nearby stall.

Fresh fruit from the nearby market!  Buying fruit is a great way for me to practice my bangla skills in a practical way!

Stipend number one: Yep! That's your tax dollars!!!

Amar nam Margaret. Amar desh America : What's in a name?

You may know me as Maggie, the name I have used since birth. In Bangladesh, however -- this time -- I will be known by my birth name, Margaret.

On my last trip to Bangladesh I assumed that people were struck by my friendly demeanor when I introduced myself as Maggie, and when they asked me to repeat my name over and louder, the response was always chuckles. Because the Bangladeshi people tend to be so polite, however, it took me about 3 weeks to (awkwardly) learn that each time that I repeated my name louder and louder I was announcing myself as a prostitute -- in the colloquial form – most closely translated to English is “Hoe.” The moral of the story: not all names translate graciously from one language to another.

So, this trip, I will be known as Margaret, and henceforth, I will no longer be labeled as such. Since I will be studying Bengali on this trip, hopefully I will learn before the end of three weeks if the name Margaret translates to something worse than Maggie!

So, our gang of 15 CLS recipients (more on that later) departed from DC (where we attended an orientation and had an exciting introduction to the Banglaseshi Ambassador and State Department officials). The program itsself aside, I am looking forward to getting the know the other people on this trip. Each student is more amazing than the next, and each person is not only well-traveled, but also well-lived. It is motivating (to say the least) to be surrounded by so many super-stars, and I know that in the upcoming weeks I will be pushed to learn more than I ever thought I could.

My roommate for orientation ended up being Stephanie, the only person I really talked to before my arrival. Although I will not get to share my flat with her in Dhaka, I have loved our conversations in which I have learned more about her and why she wants to learn Bengali. Stephanie spent a great deal of time in Kolkata, India last year working with an NGO that helps women. She hopes to return to Kolkata to resume her job teaching English to young indian girls, and this time to be able to both be able to communicate with them on a deeper level and also to help with sex-trade prevention.

Our first night in D.C., after a quick meet and greet in the hotel lobby we were free for a night on the town to use as we wished. Our group collectively decided to go out to dinner together, and it was not long before we had decided on a small ethiopian retaurant. I am a pretty adventurous eater so I am always up for anything, but it was interesting to see how everyone else was also up for the same family-style meal to be eaten by hand!

The next day of Orientation made me realize how lucky I am to be here. The State Department is being very generous with our stipends and is paying for all living and transit expenses. Perhaps the highlight of my day filled with speakers and workshops was our trip to the Bangladesh Embassy in Washington D.C. where we got to meet the Ambassador of Bangladesh to the United States, H.E. Akramul Qader. We finished the day with dinner at the Old Abbot Grill where I got the chance to further mingle with the CLS recipients.


Excited and ready for our summer to really begin, we embarked for the airport at 5:00 in the morning for the first of our three planes: D.C. to NY, to Dubai and finally, to Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh.

It was curiously comforting to return to the City of crazy pollution, crazier traffic, extreme poverty and chaos. In contrast to my arrival last year, when I was overwhelmed by everything new, this time I was surprised to find that I felt immediately at home and anxious to look up old friends and college classmates who are home for the summer in Dhaka.

IT FEELS GOOD TO BE BACK! :)

First priority, however, is to get settled into my apartment, along with two other students. This summer’s accommodations are much better than the “hotel” where I was initially housed last summer and we are located in a much more wealthy part of the City. I am currently in my Dhaka apartment flat where I will be living for the next ten weeks. Each flat has a large common area with a T.V., computer, and printer. Three students share each flat, each with their own bedroom and bathroom. The accomidations are also air-conditioned.

The only minor bump in the road so far is that one of my bags was lost in transit. You win some, you lose some? I have just received word that it was located and should arrive tonight so I am not worried! After all, it's all part of the adventure.

Today is my first day of classes and I am leaving for breakfast in ten minutes so I shall end my thoughts here. There is much MUCH more to report so stay tuned!!!

Isn't is just amazing how life takes you places?

Peace,
Maggie

                         Here is an [almost complete] group picture from our night out in D.C. !! :)

A Preliminary Post: I'm still in the States

Hi Everyone! :)

Thanks for checking my Blog! :)

(I am now realizing that I have the tendency in both emails and facebook posts to put an exclamation point and smiley face after every sentence, so I am going to try to work on toning it down, haha)

So, yes. At this point I am still in the states, but in a very short amount of time I will be embarking on a grand learning "adventure" as I travel to Bangladesh for 10 weeks! Whoo!

Who: ME!

"The Assignment": Study Bengali, become fairly proficient, and learn everything that I possibly can about Bangladeshi culture, history, government, religions, etc..

How: The Critical Language Scholarship (CLS)!
(and at this point I shall ask you all to bear with me as I make a quick plug/ disclaimer)

I encourage all of my friends (and strangers, I suppose) who are either currently enrolled in Undergrad or Grad School to apply for this program!
CLS is a fellowship funded and organized by the US State Department to encourage and enable US citizens to learn "critical languages." What does this mean? Well, in other words, there are many languages that not enough Americans are taking the time to learn (Bangla, Arabic, Chinese, Hindi, Indonesian, Japanese, Korean, Persian, Punjabi, Russian, Turkish, Urdu).

You need to apply for it, but if you are chosen the State department then fully funds an entire summer of cultural immersion, intense language instruction, and travel. The program organizes travel throughout the country and arranges for participants to meet with dozens of speakers and representatives of the country. In effect, participants become ambassadors of the US!

Oh! Did I mention that it's FREE? :)

Disclaimer: This blog follows my own personal adventures and interactions, but by no means does it reflect the views of the US State department.
Alright, I said it! Now that this has been established....

A few things you should know:
1. This will not be my first time to Bangladesh
2. I plan to use Bangla in my future career and I plan to return after this summer
(I've been bitten by the Asian bug!) :)
3. I would LOVE any comments you have!
4. The internet is variable, but I promise to post at least once each week
5. I have to learn all of the script before I go.... I'm working on that....

Alright! I think that is enough for now. Get EXCITED to follow me and my adventures.

Knowing myself and the situations I tend to get myself into, I don't think you will be disappointed!!!

PEACE,

Maggie